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Many riders have been told to place the saddle forward and then move it until it settles into a “spot”. That is a good general rule of thumb but a horse’s conformation plays a big role in placement as well. I’m not going to discuss what to do with saddles that slip forward, sideways and so on as that can be for another article. I will explain how to know if your saddle is placed properly and what you should do if your horse has a forward girth spot or long withers that make placement a challenge.

By far, the most common mistake is placing the saddle too far forward. The tree points of the saddle must be behind the scapula. They are rigid and if the scapula rotates into the tree point, the horse will not only feel discomfort but it can be damaging as well. Moreover, it will interfere with your horse’s gaits, not allowing freedom of movement. Some horses are stoic but some are not. If you have trouble telling where the scapula ends, pick up the front leg or have someone do it and feel the back of the shoulder blade and the rotation of the shoulder. An inch behind is enough. It is okay if the flap extends beyond the scapula. It is said that the scapula rotates about fifteen degrees so as long as there is the ability of the shoulder to rotate, the horse should be fine.

Tree point exposed: left.    Tree point in point pocket: right. This will help you identify the  tree point that should be placed behind the scapula.

Another problem that can occur from a too far forward saddle placement is bridging or an uphill pommel/downhill cantle situation putting the rider in a chair seat and too much pressure behind. Often, moving the saddle into the correct place will alleviate this if the saddle is the correct width, length and tree/panel shape to begin with. If the saddle is still pommel high or is bridging then it is too narrow.

When the saddle is moved back to where it should be, some other issues may crop up. You may find that the billet straps of the saddle line up much further back than the girth groove. If this happens you might want to try an anatomic girth. This girth allows the billet straps to hang straight down while the girth curves forward and rests in the girth spot. With a conventional girth, the billet straps might angle forward and pull the saddle forward or put uncomfortable pressure against horse’s withers.

Some other things to consider are billet placement. For some horses, point and balance billets work well, stabilizing the saddle while some work better with center billet placement. That is generally determined by your horse’s conformation.

In conclusion; one to two fingers behind the scapula for the tree points to allow freedom for the scapula to rotate. Other soft parts of the saddle that extend beyond are fine although there may be a a few horses that are sensitive to that and you will have to be the judge of that. Never, allow the tree points to be in front of or on the scapula.

scapula…tree placement should be second line back from the head of the horse.

A dressage saddle’s purpose is obvious, for schooling in a ring on the flat.  It can be a wonderful tool to assist the rider in developing and using an effective, or “good seat”.  Because of the center of balance, the straighter flap position, depth of seat and sometimes the size/shape of the knee rolls/thigh block; the rider needs to have an appropriately long stirrup to ride well in one.

 Dressage

But what exactly is the difference between an all-purpose and a jumping saddle, and how does this difference affect stirrup length?  Generally speaking, an all-purpose saddle is for the rider who perhaps likes to ride with shorter than dressage stirrups on the flat/in the ring and maybe on trail rides, and may opt to take the occasional small jump found out in the country or ring.  It usually offers a deeper seat than a jump saddle, while retaining the ability to shorten the stirrups.  An all-purpose saddle does not take the place of a jump or dressage saddle for a rider who wishes to be proficient beyond a basic level of dressage or jumping. All-purpose saddles may have a more dressage, trail or jump oriented flap but not as straight as dressage or as forward as close contact/jump.

With our understanding of the anatomy and physiology of the horse, as well as, the mechanics of our equipment, panel options are evolving and improving more and more. Solutions are becoming available to find the perfect fitting saddle for every horse, even the ones right off the rack. However, all of these options and choices do not make it any easier to pick exactly which saddle will be the best fit for you and your horse. The following is meant to define these “options” specifically, and explain how they deviate from the standard.

Saddle panels are one part of the saddle that can have multiple options. Being the weight bearing surface of the saddle, it is very important to get the correctly shaped panel that provides the most continuous contact between the horse and the saddle.  This enables the saddle to disperse the weight or pressure per square inch of the rider.  To the left is a picture of the standard panel shape.  This standard panel works well on horses that have good, filled-out toplines, without any dips or hollows behind and to the side of the wither, or without a prominent, bony wither. The width and angle of the panels may vary making it suitable for various conformations but it is still a standard type panel.

Another type of panel is the drop or trapezius panel. This panel is primarily meant for horses that have a dip or a conformational hollow just behind and to the sides of the wither or perhaps for a horse with a large shoulder and slight dip.  The extra depth and shape that this panel has fills up the localized area of the hollows. Below is a picture of a drop or trapezius panel.

Finally there is a third panel shape, the k-panel. This panel provides even more depth than the trapezius panel as it covers and therefore fills in a much larger area. It is useful for a conformation in which the horse is downhill in such a way that the tree would slide into the wither area. This feature consists of the front third of the saddle. Below is a picture of a saddle with a k-panel. The k-panel may be called other things such as a skid row panel but the features are essentially the same; to provide extra depth and therefore balance, for a horse that has a downhill, forward placed scoop or narrower wither but larger shoulders.

More options arise when we look at the interior filling of the panels. There are two main types of panel construction: gusseted and non-gusseted. Gusseted panels are usually flocked with wool or a synthetic filling.  Non-gusseted panels are generally made of foam, or lined with felt and then filled with foam or flocking. There are advantages and disadvantages of working with either material. Flocked, gusseted saddles can be reflocked or have their flocking adjusted by a saddle fitter to accommodate a horse’s changing shape or to fit a different horse. Foam, non-gusseted saddles cannot change their shape, and do not have much adjustability. If fitting adjustments are needed, correction pads are used.  However, foam is durable and holds its shape over time, which generally means no adjustments or maintenance.. This does not hold true for flocked, gusseted saddles.

Sometimes, there is a difference in shape, or rear panel angle, between the gusseted and non-gusseted saddles. Gusseted saddles can provide an extra wedge, creating a squared-off, broad, flat surface area. This can work very well for horses that have a flatter, broader back from side to side and front to back. Conversely, non-gusseted saddles might not have that extra wedge shape, creating a more upswept surface profile. This can be useful with a horse that has a more curved topline.

Gusset depth in the rear, (from shallow to deep), also plays a role in balance of the saddle. The deeper or thicker the rear gusset, the more the saddle will raised in the back. This can be useful with a horse that is very uphill. However, if the saddle is too narrow to begin with, adding depth to the rear gusset may balance the saddle but not necessarily improve the fit.

The rear end of the panel can also have an “upswept” option. In this scenario, the panel is thinner in the rear with a swept up appearance. This helps horses whose backs curve upwards in the rear by keeping the saddle from bridging or digging into the loins. This option can also be useful for a short backed horse.  Below is a picture of an upswept panel.

Adjustments to the front of the saddle can be made as well. There are two common options that can be added, wither gussets and full front gussets. Horses that have a nicely filled out topline, with no dips and hollows, generally work well in just a standard saddle; see the picture below.

Wither gussets are an additional tear shaped flocked panel toward the top of the panel, their main use, to fill in the small dips to the sides of the wither on horses that have moderate to large withers with hollows on either side. You might be thinking that this sounds familiar to the trapezius panel mentioned above, and in fact it is! Almost always, these two are used in conjunction. A saddle with wither gussets is pictured below right. Full front gussets are an extra full length panel addition with flocking all the way down the length of the front of the panel. These can be useful in several fitting situations.  Full front gussets can provide lift to the front of the saddle. They can be used to get more clearance over a horse with a large wither and/or curved back from front to rear to lift the front of the saddle up rather than allowing it to slide forward and down, into the back of the wither. Additionally, they can be helpful with a horse that is pear shaped where the saddle may want to slide forward onto the shoulder.

Below left is a picture of a saddle with full front gussets.  Below right is a saddle with wither gussets.

Having an understanding of your horse’s conformation and the available options is crucial to finding the best fitting saddle. Using a saddle that has “options,” but not those that were meant for your horse’s body-type can be worse than using a “standard” saddle and can cause physical and behavioral problems. Compare it to a pair of shoes with a substantial arch that doesn’t correspond with the arch in your foot! Conversely, using a saddle that has just the right “options” for your horse can make all the difference in fit and comfort, resulting in a healthy and happy horse. Hopefully this article clearly defines all of the different options available for panel construction, and how to choose which one would be right for your horse. However, if you have any further questions or comments, don’t ever hesitate to call the shop! We are always here to help you learn all the information and choose what saddle is best for you and your horse!

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The most basic definition of bridging is when the saddle only makes contact on two points. Those points would be at the front and back of the saddle, leaving a big space in the middle where there is no pressure, like a bridge, hence the term bridging. There are many degrees of bridging. Sometimes you will notice a large lack of contact and other times there may be the slightest bit of daylight or lightness under the center of the panel. This is determined by “static” fit; fit that is assessed while the horse is standing still, not actively moving. “Active” fit, conversely, is when the fit is assessed while the horse is moving and engaged.

Bridging can be caused by too narrow a  tree. The saddle, when too narrow, will sit up on the horse, not making enough panel contact. If one were to try a wider tree, the saddle, if the right shape, would allow for a more uniform contact. If the saddle is too “A” shaped, on a horse that may need an upside down “U” shape or hoop tree, again, the saddle will perch and likely bridge. Picture trying to put a clothespin on a round watermelon! Bridging can cause concentrated pressure on the contact points, thus making for a potentially sore horse.

Another cause of bridging might be too straight of a tree or panel configuration for a horse that has a scooped topline or even a swayback. Although there are trees or saddles that have more curve built into them longitudinally, it is very hard to have no bridging on a horse with a pronounced swayback.

How much bridging is acceptable? This is where much of the controversy is. Many say that a little bit or lightness in static fit it is okay because one expects the horse to use their abdominals and bring up their back. If the horse does bring up its back, then theoretically, it needs a place to bring it and should not be restricted. The other side of the coin is that some feel that the fit should be soft and uniform front to back to disperse pressure uniformly.

Identifying bridging is easy if there is gaping space but not as easy when there is a subtle amount of space. Generally, we suggest girthing up the saddle and trying to feel uniformity or a slight lightness under the center, but feeling the panel front to back. Actively riding and making note of how one’s horse responds is also helpful. It is said that a horse’s gait shouldn’t change more than ten percent from the unsaddled free gaits, (but of course, that also depends on the rider’s ability).

Some identify bridging by looking at patterns on a saddle pad, assuming that dark marks at the front and back indicate heavier pressure. Others rely on sweat marks or dry spots on a horse’s back. Again, different fitters have different theories on these indications and those same indicators can be the result of other issues.

Slight bridging, if not caused by too narrow a saddle can be addressed, depending on the degree, with correction pads, panel options such as K panels, dropped panels, or perhaps, upswept panels.  These fixes are not for every bridging situation and should be evaluated by a person qualified to make those recommendations.

The bottom line is that even panel contact or light contact in the center is ideal if the horse is able to move freely and bring its back up. Yet, there are some solutions if the bridging is minor due to conformation issues. Talking to someone that has knowledge in this area and making note of anecdotal evidence makes their job easier if they are not hands on!

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Hammie is ecstatic to be working again, maybe a little too happy. He is a horse that needs a job.He’s a little too curious for his own good. I think he gets bored when not working. He spent many hours this winter trying to figure out ways to escape from the paddocks, undo gates and so on. He managed a couple of times to escape until we figured out his route. He also runs to greet me at the fence and is always in everyone’s face while they try to do other pasture or horse things. He’s a, “It’s all about me!” type of horse.

We have been on the trail but I cannot overtax him though. The snow has been deep and often heavy and he gets tired quickly but that doesn’t stop his enthusiasm. He is in a perpetual state of “What’s here? What’s there?” kind of wonderment. He loves the trail and so do I. I love it because it is just Hammie, nature, and me. It connects me back to Hammie and is also a great bonding experience. It lets me daydream a bit because he is so steady. (Aside from the other day when a crazy dog jumped out of his fenced yard under Hammie’s feet and he did what Mom called a “Capriole”). Hammie is sometimes like the glue that keeps Sean together on the trail when there is excitement. Note; when Sean spun and wanted to bolt down a steep trail due to sudden deer, Hammie stood his ground and, (well, okay, maybe just a shudder), and that calmed Sean.

I think we both like the trail because we don’t have to think about circles and straightness and all the things that we should be working on. We just get to relax and hang out with each other and enjoy the ride.

Many riders, especially riders who only want to dabble in jumping for a little something different, try to jump with their stirrups too long.  The reasons behind this vary; some people aren’t aware that their stirrups are too long, some think it won’t matter, and others find it uncomfortable.  Stirrup length can be compared to a swing set.  The swings on a tall swing set, standing ten feet high, can swing much higher and further and the arc is much longer than that of a short, child’s swing set that stands five feet tall.  The longer the distance from the fixed hanger, or stirrup bar, the more the stirrup iron can swing like a pendulum.

There are a few methods used for judging correct stirrup length.  The one most people are aware of is to remove one’s feet from the irons and let the leg hang.  For jumping, it has been recommended to adjust your leathers so the bottom of the iron is just above the ankle bone.  Another method, and the one I favor, would be to raise your leather until the spur rest on your boot or your spurs themselves, can touch the horse when the foot is in the iron.  I favor the latter because with a rider with exceptionally flexible ankles, it is easy for the spur to drop below the sides of the horse making the use of the spur impossible.  Additionally, this method takes into greater consideration, the different shapes of horses’ barrels and the varying conformations and lengths of leg that riders have.

When the rider’s leg is stable and unable to swing back, and she/he is able to influence the horse with the leg/spur in a prompt fashion, staying secure and feeling safe over the fence becomes nearly effortless.  The rider is then able to stay balanced over the ball of their foot from take-off to landing.  Another way of illustrating this proper position would be to suggest that while looking at a photo, a rider would be able to land on their feet if the horse were to be removed from under them.  When instead, the leg swings back, the leg becomes useless as a driving aid and then, to further burden the horse, the rider’s upper body topples forward onto the forehand, usually just as the horse’s shoulders are trying to come up off the ground.  This is referred to as jumping ahead.  Because the rider’s shoulders incline forward before the horse actually leaves the ground, it is easy to be out of sync with the horse’s motion and actually become dislodged or bumped about whilst the horse is jumping.  This is disruptive and potentially dangerous to both the horse and rider.  If the stirrup is short enough, it is much easier to allow the horse to jump up to the rider enabling the rider to just close the hip angle to follow the horse’s effort.

Correct stirrup length is crucial in developing a secure position for jumping, but having an appropriate saddle that allows you to shorten your stirrups is necessary or at least helpful, as well.  Saddles designed for jumping can come in all different styles and it’s important to have one that lets you perform the activity you want to do.  There are saddles for the serious, frequent jumping competitor, and those that are comfortable for long hacks and an occasional popping-over-a-log.  Regardless of your pleasure, it is important to have your stirrups short enough to be safe and secure while your horse jumps the jumps.  Next month, we will discuss what a rider needs to have in a jump saddle.

Susan Berrill is an upper level eventer and trainer located in Brownsville, VT and can be reached at sue.berrill@gmail.com

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There is something very purposeful in being responsible for developing a young horse, as well as yourself, physically and with education. This challenge takes years and is very demanding in its practice, both mentally and gymnastically. To uphold myself to respecting the communication methods of horses, to practicing good form and strength in my seat, and to honoring my horse as a rising athlete and an individual is very rewarding. While possessing all of the above traits with natural ease, teaching the horse skill by skill, layer by layer, squat by squat is what I believe creates the finest event horse.

To begin on this endeavor, the event trainer must first educate herself, and become well accustomed to correct riding. The event trainer must solidly know each skill that she would like to teach the horse prior to teaching it. She must have a plan of how to teach it, keeping in mind the rules of equine communication. She must have a plan of how to react to the horse and move forward proactively when things go wrong. She must understand that skills are taught in an integrated fashion, adding more sophistication as the horse is ready. She must understand when a horse is ready to move forward by accurately assessing the horse’s comprehension. She must understand that strength is also gained in a similar fashion, and that the complexity of each skill can be increased as strength is increased through daily repetition. Most importantly, a trainer must be able to honestly listen to the feedback from the horse, and adjust her training methods based on this feedback, understanding that any imperfections began from her teachings.  This is a process that never ends. A trainer can always work through current problems, learn about new skills, and begin teaching those new skills, working through the next set of problems. This process is worked on each day until more and more skills are attained. It is this attainment of skills by a willing and happy horse that marks the trainer’s success. Finally, during this success, the trainer gets her gratification, and her appetite that drives her motivation is fulfilled.

I choose to practice the above method in my daily riding because it is something that I hold to high esteem. It is something that I believe in. A rider must believe in whatever success they are striving for, otherwise the motivation will not be strong enough. Not all riders and riding businesses consider success to have the same meaning or significance to it as I do. There is nothing wrong with this. Riders are all individuals, with unique motives behind their passion. What matters is that each rider believes in what she strives for, as well as chooses something to strive for that is healthy for both horse and rider. It is in this way that riders can remain genuine and strong, true to their practice regardless of their surroundings. This is something that I personally believe in and promote.

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I started eventing when I had my first pony and have been hooked ever since. I dreamed of competing at Rolex and Badminton, alongside Mark Todd, Mary King, and other great event riders. I watched numerous videos of these events, over and over again. Throughout middle and high school I rode at eventing barns. I worked off my horse’s board, took lessons and competed at local events. Every day after school and weekends were spent at the barn, mucking stalls, cleaning tack, anything that needed to be done so that I could ride another horse. When I was 15, I was lucky enough to lease a friend’s horse that I took to the CCI* North American Young Riders/’ Championships. The following year, I began competing my homebred Connemara/Irish Draught cross, Practically Perfect, affectionately known as “Hobbes”. I had an agreement with my parents that as long as I achieved good grades in school, I could ride and compete. Luckily, school came easy for me and my mother would get me out of school early in order to go to horse shows. As far as I was concerned, school wasn’t going to get in the way of my competition goals.

After I finished high school, I attended the University of Vermont. I wanted to take a year off to focus on riding Hobbes, who was about to move up to the intermediate level, but my mother insisted I finish college first. That initial semester was a wake up call. Classes were much more challenging than high school and required much more studying. Although I competed Hobbes that fall in Pennsylvania and Maryland, my education had taken priority over my riding career.

I was able to take a semester off my sophomore year to be a working student for Denny Emerson. That spring was the first time in my life that I was able to immerse myself in horses without worrying about finding the time to study for school and work to pay for the horses. I spent all day, every day focused on honing my skills as a rider and competitor. I learned so much from Denny and was fortunate to be able to ride extra horses. I was surrounded by people who shared my passion and determination for success, and I began to realize what it takes to make it to the big leagues.

But the day came to go back to college. I spent the next two years finishing my college degree, working as a waitress at night and finding time to sneak in a daily ride on my horse. By this time I had started my mother’s mare, LBF Oleagh’s Image (“Leah”) under saddle and was beginning her eventing career. It was a challenge to find the time to do all of these activities every day. Although my time management skills had drastically improved since my freshman year, I spent many sleep-deprived days struggling to stay awake in lectures and falling asleep with a microbiology textbook on my lap. I managed to train my horse and do well in school.

Following graduation in May 2010, I continued to live in Burlington, Vermont, working as a research laboratory technician at UVM. I thoroughly enjoyed my research work and continuing my education, but still had to waitress in the evenings to afford keeping my horse. Leah began competing in eventing that year, and it became apparent that she was very talented. At the end of her successful first season, that included many wins from beginner novice through training level, I realized that she had the talent and athleticism to be an upper level event horse. I spent the winter in Vermont, continuing to train her and work at my two jobs. But a couple of weeks in March at Denny’s farm in Southern Pines, North Carolina forced me to realize that I needed to change my current situation and commit to developing Leah. It was time to make my riding and competing my top priority. I took decisive steps towards my goal of competing her at the advanced level. That spring I went back to working full-time for Sue Berrill, and began to ride 5-6 horses a day. In July, Leah moved up to preliminary and continued to consistently place in the top three. For a second time in my life, I was able to focus solely on my riding and horses, and my skill level dramatically improved. I spent the winter in Southern Pines training and competing and found my current job riding horses for Anne Eldridge.

Although it is important to have other interests beyond horses, dedicating my time and focus to training my horses and myself has begun to pay off. Last year, Hobbes and Leah had several wins at the preliminary and intermediate levels. Leah won her first preliminary of this season, and is aimed at two star events this spring. I’m fortunate to have many nice horses to ride and compete, and my riding has improved tremendously. Some day I will return to graduate school and pursue a research career, but for now I’m pouring my all into riding and living the dream.

* Photo provided by Brant Gamma

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I have been working on this for a while after I realized, or was told, that we had some holes in our training, particularly noticeable in our  jumping. I’m not sure where I learned the following bad habit but I have had a tendency to want to drive with my seat when my distance to a jump is going to be off. What I really need to be doing is use my legs in a rhythm to keep the horse going. How often while taking a lesson or sitting at the fence watching other riders, do you hear trainers saying, “Leg! Leg!!”, and all the while you think you ARE using your leg until you finally realize that maybe you weren’t or at least not effectively. It is so easy to see but so hard to feel sometimes until you start to feel the difference in how much easier everything becomes when your horse is actually in front of your leg.

I had been practicing, (that is until Sean injured himself and was on stall rest for a while)*, on using more leg with half halts and focusing on our rhythm. I was seeing a big improvement in our flat work and was starting to get a better feel in our jumping but that will have to wait for a bit now. Some of the other fun things that helped me with this was playing around with changes within the gaits, more forward and less but still trying to maintain a good rhythm, tempo and balance. It is one of those things that can make flat work more interesting because it is changes up the daily pattern.

Fast forward a couple of weeks from when I started this article. Finally, I can start up my horse again. I hope he is sound so that I can continue where we left off! I’ll keep you posted.

*Sean was kicked quite hard so that he had to go to the New England Surgical Center to diagnose the lameness. Luckily, it turned out, the worst that was feared, (slipping a tendon off the shoulder), was okay but  very sore and needing healing.The other side, where he was also kicked needed standing surgery for bone scraping and to have bone chips removed.. Ahhh…life with horses.

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