Brady’s Blog May

Written by Brady on May 17, 2010 at 3:20 pm

Punky and I are looking forward to this new season. We have already had our first show. It was snowing and the winds were blowing; not exactly good weather for dressage. It didn’t help that I had to wake up early either. My trainer, Sue Berrill told me I needed to look just to the next point, no further, because I was looking too far ahead and not being accurate. She said it was good other than that. I did better in getting my hips moving in relation to Punky in the canter.  I did Beginner Novice A and B and got 4th and 6th place ribbons.

My jumping is great most of the time, but there are a couple of issues here and there because, as my trainer Sue learned, Punky won’t go without a crop. Overall, he has been stellar at jumping. I’m working on his impulsion to the jump and keeping balanced.  One thing that aids this is having good hands and giving him a good approach to the jump. I tend to yank or cut corners on approach. After one strong reminder to Punky from Sue, the next time he saw Sue,  he ducked immediately behind Sean, (my mom’s horse), and tried to hide. When he did that, my trainer Sue, burst out laughing and so did my mom. Punky’s expression was, “I don’t see what is so funny. I am just trying to avoid her”.

All in all, there have been some improvements and some things I still need to work on.

Selecting An Endurance Horse

Written by Nancy Okun on May 14, 2010 at 1:53 pm

SELECTING AN ENDURANCE HORSE

There’s an old saying that goes something like “Do what I say, not what I Do” …

I just bought a young horse whom I hope will be a wonderful Endurance horse. He just turned 4. He’s kind, sensible, adorable and very green. I did what I never ever in a bazillion years thought I would do:  I bought him long distance from photos, a video and a gut feeling in my heart. He reminded me so much of my beloved chestnut gelding, Tom Foolery, who died 2 years ago – and ironically, or karmically, my new horse arrived on the 2nd anniversary of Tommy’s death. He’s beautiful and I’m thrilled with him. He’s only been with me for a week and he’s stolen my heart. But … it could have been a stupid mistake.

For those of you interested in starting in the sport of CTR or Endurance, I would first take a good look at the horse in your backyard who you’ve been trail riding for years. Most healthy and fit horses can do a 25 mile ride. What could be better than trying something new with your partner?  If your horse just isn’t cut out for the sport this article will give you a brief overview of what to look for in an endurance prospect.

Breed

Most people will swear that Arabians are the breed to choose; however, it’s not always the case. Yes, some Arabians are born for the sport, but there are plenty of breeds and crosses out there that are sound efficient movers who can excel on the trail: Morgans and Morgan crosses, Appaloosas, Anglo-Arabs, Mustangs … the list goes on.

Age

Generally it will take you two years to get a horse in top condition.  If you’re willing to spend the time for basic training before you even get started conditioning, chose a horse 3-4 years old. If you want to get on and compete sooner, look for a horse with some miles – maybe around 5-8 years old.  Even then, if the horse has not competed in this sport you’ll need to put the miles and conditioning on before you campaign.

Size

In this case size doesn’t matter (to an extent)!!  As a rule a horse can carry up to 30% of his body weight so a 900 lb horse can carry up to 250 lbs.  Even so, it’s good the match the size of the horse to the rider.

Environment and Medical History

The way a horse has been raised from the beginning and the care he’s been given is extremely important.  It’s best to have a complete medical history and an overall sketch of their lives thus far.  Horses that are allowed to grow up with plenty of room and equine playmates tend to have a better sense of “self” than a horse brought up in someone’s overgrazed back yard and are usually healthier overall.

Conformation

This could be a very long section and I’m not educated enough to go into vast detail … so I’ll be brief.  The first thing to look for is overall balance of the horse. Look for a deep heart girth, moderate neck and sturdy bone structure. Then look to the all-important feet. The walls should be dense and thick, symmetrically shaped and a good size for his body (here size is important!) Pasterns should be medium in length and have good angles. The hindquarters should be a good size relative to the rest of the body. With all that said, we’ve all seen horses who have a less than perfect conformation and who are super stars because they have great heart and great training!  It goes without saying that the horse should be a nice mover especially – at the trot – without interference or break over issues.  Remember you’re going to spend long hours riding that trot!

Personality

There are no perfect horses (or men, for that matter). You find one with vices you can live with and buy them (or marry them).  I love an affectionate horse who comes to me when I go to the gate and really likes my company.  As silly as that seems it’s very high on my list of needs. You will be spending hundreds of hours with this horse. You will be camping and be in their company 24/7 … you must enjoy being together!  I think your personality should match your horse’s as well.

Some riders prefer a laid back horse who does not pull your arms out of their sockets for the first 25 miles, while other riders love an extremely forward horse.  Whatever type of horse you prefer they must  know how to take care of themselves. By that I mean a horse who is able to eat and drink during a ride and not be in a panic when taken to strange places, and hopefully knows how to pick their way through rocky trails safely and soundly. This comes with time for sure, but there are some horses who never learn what the sport is all about.

Pre-Purchase Exam

It’s the best money you will spend. Have your vet do a complete work up. Depending on what he sees at the trot out and flexion test he may want to take x-rays. In the end, it will save you money and heartbreak.

Now, did I do a pre purchase exam on my new horse, Riley? No.  I did talk to a vet in NC who knew the horse well and happened to be an endurance rider himself.  He said in his sweet NC accent, “This is a Naaacccee Horse.”

I sent the check that day.

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Flocking Adjustments

Written by Kitt on at 1:11 pm

As a saddle fitter, I have a certain fondness for wool-flocked saddles.  They can be “custom adjusted” to your horse’s back, they breathe and help keep your horse’s back cooler, they’re nicely resilient and offer good cushion, and they will conform to the shape of your horse’s back.  However, as most folks know, they do require regular maintenance – think along the lines of annual vaccines for  your horse or oil changes for your car – and one question I’m frequently asked is “When and how often should I have the flock in my saddle adjusted?”

The answer is “It depends.”  We have to look at the age of your saddle, the condition and age of your horse, and the type and frequency of riding you do.

New saddles should be “bumped up” (adjusted) after anywhere from 8-40 hrs. of use.  If a saddle is softly flocked, it will break in quickly and you’ll have to have it done sooner; if it’s more firmly flocked, the break-in process will be a bit slower and you can often wait.  Sometimes a second adjustment will be necessary a couple of months after the initial adjustment – particularly with the more softly flocked saddles – to get the fit totally “customized”.   After that, I see most of my clients every 6-12 months.

With used saddles, you can often have the initial adjustment done as soon as you determine the saddle suits you and your horse – and in some cases, the adjustment may be needed to make the saddle fit properly, since the wool will have conformed to the back of the last horse it was used on.  With some saddles, a strip flock (old wool out, new wool in) may be necessary if the existing flocking is lumpy and has lost resilience.  In either case, subsequent adjustments should be made on about the same schedule as that of a new saddle.

If you have a young horse who’s growing, or a horse who’s progressing quickly in his/her training, you may need to have the fit checked quite often – sometimes as often as every 3 or 4 months.  Horses who are coming back from a layoff and horses who go in and out of condition regularly (event and endurance horses, for example) may need to be seen more frequently as well.

Keep in mind that these are just guidelines, not a hard and fast schedule – it will be up to you to decide when you need to call the saddle fitter, and being proactive about saddle fit is very important.  If you notice a change in the way your horse is behaving or moving under saddle, a change in the way the saddle is looking or feeling, or a change in your horse’s attitude about being saddled or worked, you may be looking at a saddle fitting issue.  Calling your fitter and scheduling a check as soon as you notice an issue can keep something small and easily remedied from becoming a major problem that can eat quite deeply into your training schedule – and your budget.

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