Leather Care 101

Written by Kitt on April 16, 2010 at 1:12 pm

Your tack is a serious investment, and the best way to protect that investment is to be conscientious regarding its care.  After each ride, you should wipe down your tack with a damp cloth or sponge to remove all dirt and sweat that have accumulated.  In addition to keeping your leather clean, this will give you a chance to do a safety check on your equipment after each ride.  Apply a good conditioner as necessary to keep the leather healthy and flexible (anywhere from once a week to once a month, depending on your climate and how frequently and in what conditions you ride).  Be sure to condition all the parts of your saddle that you can reach (except the billets, which should only be conditioned often enough to prevent cracking):  both sides of the flap and jockey and the panels as well as the seat.  Do a complete tear-down every month or two:  take the bridle completely apart, pull the stirrups and leathers off your saddle and give everything a thorough cleaning and inspection.  Use products specifically formulated for use on tack (I really like Effax Leather Combi for cleaning, and my new favorite conditioner is Black Country Balsam).  Do NOT use products formulated for car interiors, leather upholstery or boots, and do not use products like Murphy’s Oil soap, ammonia, bleach, baby wipes, olive oil, motor oil or petroleum jelly!

Conscientious care of your tack will add years to its useful life, and go a long way toward keeping you and your horse safe.

Filed under: Saddle Care
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Intro into Endurance Riding Part II

Written by Nancy Okun on at 12:49 pm

As in any competitive ride the Pre-Ride briefing is extremely important. You will be given a map, but if you’re at all like me they are completely useless. They just look like squiggly lines. So, I listen carefully and make mental note of how loops are marked (usually by colored surveyor tape) where the holds are, where there will by fly-by holds (where you don’t get off your horse, but your wonderful crew person can be there with water, food and encouragement) and what time the start will be in the morning. But truth be told … I always trust Rianon won’t get me lost and that she will instinctively know where the other horses are and where her food is!

The start at an endurance ride is a Mass Start.  We all know that horses are herd animals and guess what? They all want to be in the lead!  It’s a beautiful sight to see 30 or 40 incredibly fit horses pumped up to the max at a gunshot start! Well, it’s beautiful if YOU are not on one of those horses!! My friend and I wisely chose to keep our horses at the trailer for 10 minutes and let the mayhem settle. However, everyone has to check in with the timer at least 15 minutes before start time and let them know you are doing the ride.

Most rides begin around dawn so if you’ve never tacked up in the dark … you  may be in for an experience! I usually get everything ready the night before and put everything exactly where I can easily find it. Even then … take a double check when it’s light! A pad may be crooked or a buckle in the wrong hole or something equally as silly.

There are two types of riders at an endurance ride:  There are the ones who are really riding to win or to at least finish in the top ten. Those riders will be going FAST. Then there are the rest of us. Many riders are hoping to do better in placement then their last ride … many of us just want to finish with a sound and happy horse. At our first ride that’s all my friend and I wanted … and we were thrilled with the goal. We knew we had 12 hours (yes 12 hours) including the three holds to complete the 50 mile ride. The hold times are at the discretion of the ride manager. They can be anywhere between 30 minutes to an hour.  Our goal was to finish in 10 hours.

A few words here about rider courtesy.  There will be times, believe it or not, when your horse will throw a hissy fit for whatever reason!  It is polite to lead her off the trail a bit so she can calm down so you won’t upset other horses. At any time that you do go off the trail for any reason you must retrace your steps back to the last marker so you won’t inadvertently cut off any of the trail.  If you are going to pass another horse, do so courteously at an easy trot and ask if you may “pass on the left”. Watch the other person’s horse. If they are acting crazy put yourself in their place and walk.  If you come across a hazard … yell back to riders behind you that there’s a “hole in the road” or whatever. Always come into the holds slowly to get your horse’s pulse rate down and keep surrounding horses calm as well. Always stay at a water stop while other horses are drinking. Water consumption is vitally important and many horses will not drink if horses trot off and leave them behind.

Water consumption is vital. It’s worth repeating. Give your horse every opportunity to drink. There will be designated water stops with tanks and buckets. Let your horse choose which is more attractive. Many horses, like mine, adore mud puddles. Encourage that with praise! At water stops you should also take the time cool your horse down with water especially on a hot humid day. How much you use is weather dependent. Also, some horses need more water on their bodies to cool them than others. You’ll learn how much your horse needs with experience. Electrolytes should be given. I usually start them the day before the ride and continue throughout the ride. Again, this is a bit of a science and it takes time to get the type and quantity right for your partner.

Remember, in Endurance, unlike CTR, you are allowed to get off your horse and walk or run with them. Sometimes you may opt to do that when the hill is very steep. It’s easier on your horse to lead her at an easy trot downhill. Your legs may be stiff so it may feel good for you, too!

There will be signs, usually on pie plates attached to trees, which give you mile markers (and confidence) along the way. There will be a “one mile to hold” sign. At that point I do an easy trot for another few moments and then slow to a walk. Remember, I’m not going for the “win”.  Have your ride card ready for the “in timer”.  I ride with a heart monitor so I already know where her pulse is.  You must pulse down to criteria (usually 64 bpm) within 30 minutes of your “in” time. Your official “hold time” begins after you reach pulse criteria, so as soon as your horse is at 64 present her to the vet, who will check her for metabolics and soundness. If it’s a short hold (30 minutes) you may not be required to remove tack. Usually it’s at the vet and ride manager’s discretion, but be prepared to take off your saddle at longer holds.  You may not leave the hold until the hold time has elapsed and you’ve had the vet’s okay.  However, if you feel your horse is not quite right and could use more time to rest and eat you may stay longer. This is where your wonderful crew comes in (if you are lucky enough to have one). She will have arrived earlier and has the food for your horse (and you) all ready!  Inevitably your horse will want to eat another horse’s grain and hay. Without question this happens at every single ride. We all know it … and we all share. I have learned to snag large baggies of grain from every one of my friends before I leave for the ride so I can offer my mare a variety of snacks. They are expending enormous amounts of energy so whatever and whenever they want to eat you should be happy.  You are expending energy, too, so don’t forget to eat yourself. The last thing you want is to be woozy from starvation. When you leave the hold present your card to the “out timer” and away you go!

Hopefully you and your horse will breeze through the next two holds and sooner than you think you will see a marker telling you it’s a mile to the finish.  With good training and a lot of luck your horse will feel sound and strong. Take a moment right now and imagine that the first riders have finished many many hours earlier and they are probably enjoying a beer by now!  No matter. You and your equine partner have gone 50 miles together!  Most people get tired driving in their car for that long!

As you cross the finish line give your Ride Card to the “In Timer” to record your time. There is no shame in the “Turtle Award” (the last person to cross the finish line). Trust me, on your first ride you will be thrilled no matter what your placement … as long as your horse is “fit to continue”.

Another hint here. If you’ve been riding any distance with the same riding buddy your horses will have bonded at the hip. Go with your horse’s new found love when they present their horse to the vet. Make a plan to stay within sight of each other till both horses are vetted out.  You can’t imagine how your horse’s heart rate will rise if her buddy is out of sight!

After a teary moment, I take my horse to the trailer, take her tack off and cool her down with the water I put in buckets that morning. Periodically I’ll take her pulse. I have a hand held heart monitor and I find that’s a godsend. Once she is at the criteria bpm I may present her to the vet. Usually I carry a small bucket with me filled with a mash and carrots, apples … anything she wants.  Again, the vet will judge her metabolics and soundness and pronounce her “fit to continue”.  I’m thrilled. All A’s except for 2 B+’s. The vet will also perform a Cardiac Recovery Index or CRI. First the horse’s pulse is taken, then the horse is trotted out 125 feet and back.  The pulse is taken again exactly one minute from the beginning of the trot. The pulse should recover to or below the original pulse. If it’s higher this is an indication that your horse has been stressed.  The vet tells me she’s right on! Wow, she’s perfect!  I hug my horse. I hug the vet. I hug my riding buddy and her horse. I most definitely hug my crew.  In my heart Rianon is the best horse there.  I can see it in her eye the she’s proud of herself, too.

The first horse to cross the finish line and meet all criteria, metabolic and soundness is the winner. The next 9 riders will ribbon if they, too, meet criteria.  Any horse in the top ten may stand for the coveted “Best Condition” award. The rest of us get a “Completion Ribbon” and accrue year end miles.  And … bragging rights, stories to tell at the campfire and a glowing sense of accomplishment and pride.

Your horse will want to take a nap. Don’t worry, she deserves a rest. Provide fresh water and nice soupy mash with carrots and apples, plenty of hay and a clean area for her to lie down if she wishes. Use a light blanket if necessary.  Later on, after I’ve cleaned up and had something to eat myself, I’ll poultice and wrap her legs – or you can use your favorite liniment. Assess any cuts or bumps and treat them accordingly.

Go and enjoy the awards ceremony!!

Depending on the time of day and how far you are away from home you may decide to pack up and head home or stay another night. When possible I like to head for home. I know I sleep better in my own bed and I assume Rianon feels the same way.  Make sure you stop several times on the way home and make sure all is well with your champion! When we arrive home I may give her another soupy mash and some electrolytes. My day is complete in every way if she does her  floating victory lap around the turn out !!

Don’t even look at the mess in your trailer and truck till the morning! Relax and enjoy the evening. You and your equine partner have travelled well and long together. She will need a day off for every 10 miles you have ridden. I usually give her another day off for the trailer ride. Don’t’ be surprised if she acts tired for a day or so.  You may then ride lightly for a few days. It’s a good way to assess how fatigued she is………you may be happily surprised to find she wants to fly……..and you are already planning for your next Endurance ride.




Filed under: Competition, Conditioning
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Brady’s Blog April

Written by Brady on at 12:35 pm

I have been working on jumping and geometry and Punky has been very compliant with this endeavor. I have also been working on trying to maximize the effectiveness of my aids, so that I don’t yank when I am trying to get him to turn left. I tend to yank him so that his shoulder turns too far inside the circle and then he cannot remain balanced.  Therefore, he can’t make a good circle or he breaks to a trot. I have been trying to remedy that by able to use my leg aids more effectively and less hand. I‘ve also been working on riding uphill and downhill over jumps, outside of the ring.

I brought Punky to Trumbull Mountain today in hopes of introducing him to a different environment so that he can be comfortable in any competition. Then, I jumped some stadium fences. I worked up from small, and then to larger fences with different patterns and shapes. He was nearly perfect. He went over every jump until my Dad came to watch. Then he refused his first jump mainly because of the difference in height. I regained his confidence by going over other jumps that he jumped willingly, and lowered the problem jump for one round. Then, when he was comfortable again, we raised it back up and he jumped it with no problem. I gave with my hands really well, but I need to work on my heels. It was fun riding at a different place. Next time I write, I will have done my first “warm up” show.











Filed under: Brady's Blog, Conditioning
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Scratches Part Two

Written by Edie Tschorn on April 10, 2010 at 10:32 am

We have posted a customer response by Ellen Jefferies that we found very useful. It was shown to Dr. Reggie Tschorn, an Equine Vet, whose comment was that Ellen really did her homework.

“In your Mar 23rd newsletter Horse Keeping Hints column, you recommend hosing mud off legs and leaving them to air dry, or drying with a towel.  You also recommend keeping the fetlock hair trimmed.

Here in OH, we have world championship mud 3/4 of the year and with the mud comes cold temps, which I know you have too.  We fox hunt with our horses in pretty toxic country (seems to be well contaminated with bacteria and fungus). The horses, come in with mud to their bellies, or higher after a hunt  Scratches can be a big, big problem and for us have developed into a full blown, and nearly fatal case of cellulitis.

Our experience – learned the hard way –  has been this.  The best way to avoid scratches is to not trim the hair on the legs and to not hose mud off the legs after the hunt.  Instead, we leave the hair to protect the legs against being scratched by the brush we have to ride thru, giving bacteria and fungus an entry point.  And we put the dirty horse in a stall with a wool cooler to dry; once the mud is dry, we brush it out with a fairly soft brush or vacumn it out.  Doing it this way leaves the skin unbroken and dry, and usually without a spec of mud touching it.  Most of the time, even if we’ve been riding thru water, the water doesn’t wet the hair all the way to the skin.  We found that hosing the horse after work left the legs wet to the sking and taking long enough to dry out that the skin became chapped the skin, which again led to infections.

If we do end up with breaks in the skin on the legs (scratches or worse), we immediately do clip leaving about 1/4″ of hair up to the knees/hocks.  We do hose mud off, sponge with betadine solution, and blow dry the legs with an ionic hair dryer (works real fast) een tho blow drying a horses legs is a real pain.  After the legs are dry, depending on the state of the infection, we use either panalog ointment if we have serious inflamation and swelling (cellulitis) or if you don’t have swelling, a mixture of DMSO, furazone (antibacterial), and one of the fenbendazole wormers  (an antifungal) in equal parts.  I assume you can substitute a different antibacterial if you don’t want to use furazone.

We had a “gray” draft cross with lots of pink skin.  We almost lost him to cellulitis.  It took 9 months to clear up the infection, all of which was the result of hosing his legs after hunts.  It didn’t help that we went thru every treatment 6 different vets could think of without finding success, until we finally used one that recommended panalog.  Our experience with him, and a lot of trial and error, is what led to the procedure we use.

The DMSO concoction is one I first saw in an article on scratches in Chronicle of the Horse.  It cures everything fast, from scratches to rain rot to girth itch to ring worm”

Filed under: Caring for Your Horse, Veterinary
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Edie’s Tip on Scratches

Written by Edie Tschorn on at 10:19 am

Here in the northeast, spring means “wet and muddy” – and that can mean scratches.  And as anyone who’s dealt with that problem can tell you, this is one case where an ounce of prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure.


Hose or wash the mud off your horse’s legs, and either allow them to air-dry or use a towel to remove as much water as possible.  If you keep the hair on the cannons, fetlock joints and pasterns neatly trimmed, it won’t hold as much water and dirt, and will make your job much easier.  Check for scratches during your daily grooming routine – if scratches do develop, catching them early will make them easier to deal with.  Zinc oxide cream is the usual treatment – Desitin diaper rash ointment works wonders.


Filed under: Caring for Your Horse, Veterinary
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